The Fashion Month bonanza for AW17 is over and through flashbacks I’ll give you my pick of the 4 weeks, the 4 cities starting New York.
As I’m a Belgian living in NY, it had to be the other Belgian living in NY.
The expectations for Mr Raf Simons first collection as the new chief creative officer at Calvin Klein, one of the iconic names of American fashion, were at its highest, to say the least.
The fact that his show was so early in the week at the unheard time of 10:00 am, gave it even more attention.
We were given a thrilling, beautiful, intelligent, pragmatic, simplistic, unisex catwalk. Although there were some blurred lines between men and women, Simons was not always going into gender fluidity : the women wore ribbed skirts and plastic feathered dresses. For the men, we recognised his trademark tailored skinny suits. In those suits, I also saw a reference to Calvin Klein’s tailored Nineties suits. It’s proof that Mr Simons respects the CK legacy, taking it on board in his future creations. Nonetheless, both women and men wore the same colourful shirts with breast pockets.
And we have to add the political statement he made, beginning and ending the show with David Bowie’s “This is not America”.
Backstage post-show Mr Simons said : “I keep thinking of all the beauty here; you have to focus on that now. And I think American youth is the future for this country.”
Certainly, his American quilt parka could be this generation’s go-to look. And if this is his way of approaching the actual American political situation, it’s honest and hopeful.
The show was a great premiere. For now, I am satisfied and let this first presentation of the new Calvin Klein sink in.
Mr Raf Simons was the talk of NYFW.
To be continued.